Ahlfors' panther G

[cahlfors]

Thanks, Bob!

Reassembly is back where I took it apart!

It's amazing how much solvent there is in a spray can!

I have installed the front armor plates. The fit was perfect and the threaded holes look like a perfect fit, too. Next thing there, is to install the screws and we'll know for sure.

Almost done with the chassis:

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[mrTyko]

Here is one who is as diligent as a Bee.
You make me feel ashamed, the speed you have with your build.
Robert

[cahlfors]

Why? I'm trying to catch up with you, so we will be on the same page with our panthers!

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[cahlfors]

The problem with being a perfect idiot is that things take a lot longer that way.
The wheels were prepared for assembly by soaking them in dishwater overnight. However, there was some sticky goo left in some places, so I used IPA to remove, but it didn't help. This is where I got smart and did what I have advised others not to. I put all the wheels in the dishwasher and ran them at 75C. I know, there are silicates and caustic stuff in it that attacks the aluminum.

The gooey stuff got removed thoroughly, alright, but the entire surface was a powdery mess, like the wheel on the left:

I used the lathe for help in turning and have started touching the wheels up again with steel wool and steel brush. Each side takes about five minutes, so it is doable, but there are a lot of wheels...

Right now, I am about three quarters done with the repairwork and still have a day's work left, but I would probably have had the wheels complete if I had half a brain!

Don't do this!
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[Björn Johansson]

Great build Christoffer really enjoy read about all you´r work here.
Will sure be a awesome Panther

[RC_BobM]

Looking good Chris! Keep at it. Panther wheels are major job whether using steel ones or Aluminum. Looks so good!
Best regards,
Bob

[cahlfors]

Thanks for the kind words!

It has gotten milder, so the garage is workable again. Hurry while it lasts!

The wheels are all brushed up now and so it was time to do some test fitting. I have not yet decided on what track I will use. It depends a little on what modifications are necessary.

Test fitting of wheels:

Interestingly, regardless of tracks, the guide horns will not be guiding the track at all. I wonder how this works?
Near end: Liam's. Middle: Vincent's. Far end: Armortek

There is not enough room between the outer wheels to increase the width of the middle, double wheel to touch the guide horns. Hmmm.
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[mrTyko]

Oh oh oh now I'm really jealous of you my friend.
I understand the problems you have choosing between these links.
Robert

[RC_BobM]

Interesting comparison Chris. I don't think the clearance will matter much over the road wheels. As long as fit is good at Idler wheel (not too loose, not too tight). As you know side to side alignment of sprocket with rest of wheels is critical. I think you will be good with either of those track as long as fit at sprocket is good and all is aligned properly.

[cahlfors]

The main concern is that the guide horns are considered weak, so I am thinking that I need to spread the load onto as many guide horns as possible when turning. That means reducing the axial play. 4mm spacers have been printed and put between the road wheels and the sprocket has been widened as well. The guide horns are only 1,5mm wider apart than on the standard track, so the 4mm measurement is a surprise.

Test fitting of the track (ah, well, this was 90 links...):

Sprocket alignment. The 4mm spacer takes up all axial movement, but the clearance may be too tight. We will see when I make a proper spacer from aluminum:

No major issues identified yet:

Sensitive viewers warned:

The temporary idler is from a COUGH, COUGH (tiger) COUGH, COUGH.


A zillion washers are on the way in to be installed between the links to take up the 1mm+ axial play. This is necessary to spread the load on the guide horns. I am really looking forward to taking every link apart and installing those!
If you don't hear from me until next year, you know what I am doing...

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[RC_BobM]

Looking Good Chris. Is that Liam track or Vincent track? The fit looks ok, maybe a bit tight on the sprocket teeth. The guide horns were weak on real tank as well, so no worries. The steel links should be stronger than the aluminum in all aspects.

Keep going!
Bob

[cahlfors]

The idea is to check what it takes to try Vincent's tracks. Since people have crashed the guide horns, I would like to take a cautions approach and see if that cuts it - or if I have to give up also. Although steel is stronger than aluminum, I am not aware of people having issues with the stock track. Trying to understand why, is what this is about. Lots of axial play is one part. Delicate detail on the guide horns is another.

There are wheel alignment adapters made for the tests, but nothing is actually modified. Going back to standard means just removing those adapters.

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[RC_BobM]

Makes since Chris, I remember several folks having "fit' problems with Vincent tracks. Looking Good!
Bob

[cahlfors]

A little bit of CNC machining is fun, although I don't quite have the competence. Through this process, I have learned that there are multiple ways of doing things and they could be categorized into milling "strategies". Which strategy to choose, depends on your equipment. Keeping the mill bit free of chips is a major concern, in a non-cooled machine. Therefore, it seems to be better to go through the material as quickly as possible, because then the chips can just fall through and don't end up in the milled track. The particular mill bit I was using for this was a three-flute tool, which can in fact plunge straight into the material without causing major vibration. I have tried four-flute bits before and they don't seem to have this ability.


The 4mm sprocket spacer, now in aluminum:

This is where it goes:

Ready for testing:

Now, the assembled track is taken apart and washers installed to reduce the axial "slop".
Then, on to testing!
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[RC_BobM]

Nice Work Chris! I didn't realize the track needed 4mm spacing wow! For milling Alum the fewer flutes is better and higher RPM. I generally use 2 flute, but 1 flute really clears the chips. Gummy materials need to clear chips!
Best regards,
Bob