Välkommen till Minipansar.nu - aktivt sedan 2008

My work on the Panther proceeds very slowly so you have missed nothing important before this post.
The only interesting thing I have done was on the hole for the “C” hook at the rear end of the lateral plate. I moved it as Kent showed in a post.



.

Here it is what I have done yesterday.
The first.
I have worked on the other two holes for the “C” hook at the front end of the lateral side of the hull.
I have fitted them by a “washerous bush”



I glued it by epoxidic resin “Acciaio Rapito” (that means quickly steel).



Because the “bushous” part was a bit longer than the lateral plate thikness



I grinded it




to get the same level



The second.
Kent noticed the armoured semicircle covers for the gear case of the kit were too short (picture by Kent)



Because I am not as skilled as him I asked a modeller for an help. He made the two pieces by a lathe starting from an aluminium big bar... as you can see in the picture below.



When he gave me the covers he warned me the two “teeth” were a bit larger to allow me to fit the joints better by an easy work.
As he told me the two pieces did not match each other



So I used a perfect BHC tool (Brain-Hand-Controlled)



To get a acceptable goal



... nay...



two acceptable goals

Hi Pierluigi,

Nice to watch your posting here and to see that my work has inspired you (and not frighten you off... )
Feel free to use any of my photos my friend no problem.

That semicircle of yours in Aluminium is far better then my own.
I also have a very limited range of nice machines so I had to make my out of chemical metal putty + the kit part.

The new location for the lift bosses will enable the U- and C-hook to work properly now.
If you don’t have Mike Stannard Panther U- and C-hook get them as they are the most accurate ones on the market.

Kind regards
Kent

Hi Kent,

your work is like a bicycle race for me... until I can I will follow the Champion.

I have akready got the U- and C-hook from Robert E Morey (if I remember rightly).

Kind regards
Pierluigi

I have a dream... making a 1/6 copy of the sprocket wheels for my Panther so I asked Tim Bowman about some detailed pictures.
He mailed me the following pictures.

I post them with the author's permission because they are -I think- really interesting. I have never seen a so detailed pictures.












Comparing the pictures with the following drawing




we can realize the opposed borders (red lines) of the cogwheel and the inner plate of the wheel is correct. On the contrary the borders of the cogwheel and the outer plate is wrong (a reverse S shape instead of an S)


You can find the pictures of other AFV in this link http://thepanzertrap.com/panzertrap_die ... ences.html#

Enjoy it

P.S.

Looking at the pictures above I realize how hopeless is my idea of making a 1/6 close copy of the sproket wheel

Kind regards

Hi Pierluigi,

So you have Bob’s U- and C-hooks, well then you have the finest ever made - good move!
Bob don’t make them any more so feel fortune being one of the lucky ones having them.
They are 100% accurate in every detail and Bob come to hate me as I constantly wanted him to change his drawings before making them...
I have a real ww2 Panther U- and C-hook and have also helped Mike and now a Brian Leach making them but Bobs are still the finest.

Regarding the sprockets I think you shall wait and see what the next Panther batch will bring.
The sprockets were changed for the Jagdpanther after our Panthers had been made.
I think they now are so much better so wait and see my friend.

Kind regards
Kent

Hi Kent,

I wrote to Mark about a four pieces sprocket wheel, this is his replay

" The one piece sprocket design that we used on our original Panther G was replaced with a two piece design on the Jagdpanther production two years ago. For the new universal hull design that we are about to produce, we have a new sprocket design. This has two pieces but does not have separate bolt on tooth rings. The detail of the bolt circle is corrected and the triangular cutouts are corrected.

To change the design further would increase cost and complexity, and I would be concerned about durability. The 1/6th scale design of these parts is always a compromise. An absolute scale replica would fail immediately in operation, because there would be insufficient running clearance and the fixing bolts would not be strong enough. "

I think I will buy the new sprocket wheels.

Kindest regards, my friend.


P.S. I suppose "... The detail of the bolt circle is corrected and the triangular cutouts are corrected. "are due to your posts.

Very interesting read - thanks for posting!

It's nice to see that the models are getting better and better. I agree wholeheartedly with Mark's assessment that a model is a compromise. Accuracy on one hand and cost and durability on the other. Making the right choices here is no small challenge! Luckily, we have the choice with the aftermarket suppliers to get those extremely good looking and expensive parts. However, we can also choose to add detail to or modify the stock parts. Personally, I lean toward the latter as a full supply of aftermarket options adds upp to just about the cost of another model... And I know exactly what I would do with such funds. But there is a choice and that's the important thing.

Looking forward to see the continuation of this - you are a man with ambition. That promises a very good looking model!

Cheers,
/Chris (Tiger 2010 owner)

Hi cahlfors

Unfortunately for me my skillness is not as hight as my ambition

Cheers

Velcome plgGe

Fantastic build you´r doing
Enjoy reading about it keep
up the good work.

plgGe wrote: Unfortunately for me my skillness is not as hight as my ambition

That makes two of us - at least!

Cheers,
/Chris

cahlfors wrote:

plgGe wrote: Unfortunately for me my skillness is not as hight as my ambition

That makes two of us - at least!

Cheers,
/Chris

Make that 3

Cheers
Kent

Kent suggested me to add an extra threaded hole on the armoured semicircle cover for a second bolt to fit the cover stronger to the hull


So I drew the shape of the cover on the inner side of the hull




to allow me to find the right point to make the second hole.


I passed through the original hole on the hull (red circle) to make the first hole in the cover

afterwards I marked the point for the second one

and I began to drill …

… A drill bit broke but the end abundantly protruded so it was easy to remove it.

I put in another drill bit and the work started promptly.

And this is the finished work ... on one side only




I thought the works should not be too long on the other cover

The drill bit made the first hole very easily.
The second hole… The drill bit cut the aluminum of the hull like a knife cuts the butter

but when it reached the armor ...
... The tip broke inside the hole

Ouch!
I've done that a zillion times with both drill bits and taps - always very annoying. In this case the easy way out is to simply drill a new hole nearby. Especially if you intend to cover it up with spackle anyway.

Good luck!
/Christoffer

Hi cahlfors
I agree with you , that is a very annoying kind of work.
I will try to remove the tip. Otherwise I will follow your suggestion.

Kind regards

As I understand the drill often brake just as it punctures trough the aluminium plate?

From my experience it depends on two things, too low rpm´s or dull drill. Also misalignment if you have made a center punch prior to drilling have been a factor in braking drills.
The smaller the drill the higher rpm.
If you have problem with heat, cool with alcohol (T-Röd in Sweden, or other denatured alcohol).

just 2 cents

Also drilling to 4/5 of the hole depth and then lift the drill to clean out the hole before drilling the last ½ mm or so also helps I have found.